2025 - Georgia
After returning the car to Belgrade unscathed (despite it being only October, the drive from Sarajevo went sub-zero and the car did not have winter tyres) and dropping Claire off at the airport, the next day I flew to Tblisi, capital of Georgia.
Georgia is a photographer’s dream, packing a huge range of subjects into a small, relatively easy to navigate country. There's dramatic alpine scenery especially in the north near the Russian border, countless ancient sites like stone defence towers and monasteries, and it's also the birthplace of wine and has one of / or the oldest language in the world with its own alphabet not shared anywhere else.
Tbilisi has no shortage of street photography opportunity. It has a mix of crumbling wooden balconied houses (of which I stayed in one), Soviet-era architecture and metro system, a lively street scene, some very modern architecture, unique cable cars, and very interesting (and friendly) characters. Strongly recommend not using google maps and just wandering random back streets like in the old town but also more broadly. A must see is the Chronicles of Georgia monument, staggering in scale and intent with 16 pillars around 35m tall, each covered with depictions of Georgia's history.
A highlight here was taking a train (~4-5hrs) to Kutaisi (stayed 5 days) and exploring the nearby Tskaltubo, a once-glamorous and gigantic Soviet spa town whose decaying sanatoriums, with grand columned facades, peeling murals, empty bathhouses and overgrown gardens, are incredible for atmospheric, moody photography. The spas were said to have ‘Waters of Immortality’ and it was the most sought-after R&R destination in the USSR, even with a direct train connection from Moscow. Some of these buildings still house families displaced from Abkhazia in the 1990s, so be respectful. One of the most unique places I've ever been; while I went in solo I ended up meeting an urbex specialist and we checked it out together. I also bathed in the spa waters (one centre is now operating). It's tricky to explore because of how overgrown everything is, the buildings are in serious disrepair and there's dogs, so yeah read the excellent online guides before going.
Also check out the town of Gori, the birthplace of Stalin, where you can find and enter his famous green train, and see his death mask. The fortress in the town is also impressive including the nearby giant sculptures of knights.
Overall, photographically Georgia seems to get great light, with misty mornings in the mountains and golden evenings in the valleys, and late autumn was good for colour. Summer I would possibly avoid unless on the coast. It's surprisingly touristed and very different to what people might imagine when you mention Georgia (think news coverage and long gone stereotypes). It's also incredibly safe feeling, I rank it together with Armenia, China, Serbia and Bosnia & Herzegovina as the safest country I've travelled to (of 50!). This is mainly personal safety and things like theft, the exception could be the roads which seem to have their fair share of crashes - traffic in Tbilisi is also a shocker.
All in all, Georgia was a favourite.



